In the early 1950s, Rolex began developing watches intended for professional activities. Serving as tools for deep-sea diving, aviation, mountain climbing, and scientific exploration, the function of these watches went far beyond merely telling time. Generating cult followings and an unprecedented lasting enthusiasm, these timepieces became known as the watches of achievers.
In 1953, Rolex let the world know that they were able to produce a robust diver’s watch in a spectacular way when Auguste Piccard dove 3,131.8 meters into the ocean with his submarine. Hans Wilsdorf, the founder of Rolex, had affixed his Rolex watch (especially created for this particular adventure) to the vessel’s hull. Featuring a prominently visible Rolex logo and a luminous dial, the watch dove into the water along with Piccard’s Bathyscaphe submarine and emerged immaculately, retaining all function and ticking away perfectly.
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The perfect partner on land or in the sea, the Submariner was designed to work perfectly 660 feet under the water. The timepiece remained just as elegant above sea level, debuting to awed visitors who clamored to get a look during the Basel Fair of 1954. Featuring a matte black dial, a rotating bezel with markers about 5 minutes apart, and big luminous hands and indexes, the watch included a luminous pearl in the center, marking the zero-position on the bezel. A small sign nearby read, “Submariner – the diver’s friend,” and just like that, a legend was born. The watch, which retained classic elegance while exuding a sporty diving theme, laid the tracks that Rolex’s competition would scramble to follow. From the rotating bezel that was used to gauge air-time when submersed to the flip lock clasp and extension link (for wearing outside a wetsuit), Rolex’s innovations would continue to shape the market for decades to come.
The early years of the submariner were remarkably varied and volatile, with several different models being released in a short period of time, when compared to later years. For instance, sometimes the depth ratings had feet followed by meters, while others featured meters followed by feet. Varying models included various dials – from gloss dials with gilt or silver print, to matte dials with white print, to 369 explorer type dials. This period of experimentation allowed the Rolex brand to finesse the Submariner model to perfection, making it the iconic mainstay in the watch market that it is today. Snag this classic style for yourself with this incredible stainless steel Rolex Submariner from 1985 or this elegant steel and 18K gold Submariner offered on Gleem’s website. A classic symbol of good style, the Submariner style is highly coveted and quick to sell.
The history of the Submariner can be visualized as three distinct eras:
The Experimental Years (1950-1960): Model ref 6200, 6204, 6205, 6536, 6536/1, 6538, 6538/6, 5508, 5510
The Formative Years (1960-1980): Model ref 5512, 5513, 1680 red, 1680 white
The Stable Years (1980 – Present): Model re16800, 168000, 16610, 14060, 14060M
Join us next week for an inside look at another celebrated Rolex timepiece – and an inside look at authenticating one of the most highly faked watches in the industry, the iconic Rolex Daytona.
x, Casey
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